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Japanese motorcycle special teams use Kawasaki KLX250 motorcycles for reconnaissnce. The majority of this video shows the Japanese team riding in formation on a soccer field or some type of field in Japan. Its funny seeing them ride onto the field with Steppenwolf "Born To Be Wild" playing on the loud speaker. This video was uploaded to YouTube when the Kawasaki KLX250 was discontinued in the United States.

It would be nice if Harley Davidson or Polaris made dual sport motorcycles. Harley Davidson did own the design and production rights for a British made dual sport motorcycle back in 1993 called the MT350 and MT500. Both bikes had Harley Davidson badges, but I don't know if the bikes were actually built by Harley Davidson or Armstrong-CCM Motorcycles in Britain, and both bikes were powered by a Rotax engine.

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Japanese Motorcycle Special Teams At Training with Kawasaki KLX250

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Harley Davidson MT500 Military Bike
I've used the Harley Davidson 12v heated vest, part #98325-09VM, for 8, maybe 9, winter seasons, and it has been a great vest. I can't remember exactly what I paid for it, but I think it was around $150 from a local Harley dealership. Its not bulky and its light weight, and it doesn't make you feel like your over dressed and can't move freely. The vest's current draw is high enough to keep you warm on most cold riding days when used with a jacket, but low enough so low output alternator's on low-end bikes can power it without any battery problems. Over the years I have only experienced 2 problems, and both issues had to do with the main power cord. When I first bought the vest I would place the power switch inside the inner pocket when I was done using it. This caused the copper wiring to break from repeated bending after 4 or 5 years of use. I'm not talking about the wiring mesh used to heat up the vest, I'm talking about the visible power cord that plugs into the bikes battery. I think the bending from placing the switch in the inner pocket weakened the wires and caused them to eventually break. After I fixed the problem with some soldier, electric tape and a terminal butt connector, I stopped messing with the switch after I was done riding and I just let it freely hang there. The repair worked for 4 more years, but just the other day I experienced the same problem. In the photo's below you can see how the wiring and insulation is broken causing an open circuit. I think this new problem was also partly caused from the first 4 or 5 years of use, and I also think the bulky connectors and switch indirectly helped cause the new break in the wires. Sometimes I squeeze through tight spaces while wearing the vest and the connectors and switch get pinched, which causes a pull on the wires. To fix the problem I decided to do away with the bulky original connectors and electrical switch and replace everything with a small and light weight connector that's commonly found on trickle chargers. I don't remember the name of the connector, but you can see it in the photo below. I have the same type of connector permanently attached to the motorcycle for plugging in a charger to charge the bikes battery. I ran an extension from that connector up to the tank bag, so I can easily plug in the vest and I'm good to go.

I think by not having the original bulky heavy connectors and electrical switch I can get another 4 years of use out of this vest. Unfortunately, Harley Davidson no longer sells it and it has been replaced by one powered by a portable 7v rechargeable lithium battery. Oh, and I never fold this vest, which is probably why I never experienced a break with the copper mesh inside the lining used to heat the vest.

Anyway, this vest was an excellent buy and I only wish Harley Davidson still sold the exact same one.

Click on any photo to enlarge it.

The Harley Davidson heated vest, part #98325-

The power cord wires and insulation are broken
causing an open circuit.

The old bulky and heavy electrical connectors
and electrical on/off switch.

The old bulky electrical on/off switch. The only
thing I will miss is the LED light showing
the switch is ON.

The new lighter and smaller power cord
wire and connector.

The logo Harley Davidson used on the vest

The inside collar tag. Its so old the tag below
it faded so you can no longer read it.

The tags located near the bottom, inner
part of the vest. Notice it was
manufactured in May 2008.

The extension I used to extend the power cord
up to the tank bag to make it easier to plug
the vest in.

Outdoor Power Equipment General Questions (Not Specific) / Re: Oil to fuel ratio
« Last post by Christophe on January 29, 2018, 02:39:41 AM »
I think your information is very useful for me. 

I've been riding motorcycles all winter long even through the most recent cold spell that hit the east coast. For the majority of winter days around here temperatures usually stay above 20F degrees, but lately there's been a few days when the temperature dropped into the single digits. The other day it was 15F degrees outside, and I went on a 14 mile ride that included some freeway riding. Man, I got cold! I really don't have good clothing for riding when temperatures drop below 20F. I've done it several times before, but it gets risky. I barely get 2 or 3 miles into the ride and my fingers start to hurt. I have to constantly take a hand off the handle bars and  pull my fingers into the palm of my hand and make a fist to warm them up. Than the weather stripping on my helmet visor caused a small leak that allowed a stream of outside air to leak into my helmet. It hit my forehead and caused that area of my skin to hurt. When i got to where I was going I noticed my entire face turned red as a tomato from the cold air. The helmet malfunction wasn't suppose to happen, so I wasn't prepared for it. Loosing body heat through your neck or head makes cold weather motorcycle riding brutal, and puts you at risk for hypothermia and even death. Cold weather motorcycle riding with inadequate clothing reminds me of a sculptor removing rock from a boulder one chip at a time. In the same way cold weather chips away the riders body heat until your frigid cold. If your going to ride motorcycles in cold weather its important to dress properly and know the early warning signs of hypothermia. Here are some of the symptoms for hypothermia in adults taken from Webmd's website. I will link to the full article below:

Hypothermia symptoms for adults include:
  • Shivering, which may stop as hypothermia progresses (shivering is actually a good sign that a person's heat regulation systems are still active. )
  • Slow, shallow breathing
  • Confusion and memory loss
  • Drowsiness or exhaustion
  • Slurred or mumbled speech
  • Loss of coordination, fumbling hands, stumbling steps
  • A slow, weak pulse
  • In severe hypothermia, a person may be unconscious without obvious signs of breathing or a pulse

What Is Hypothermia?

I found a used motorcycle online sold by a Honda dealership in another state. The price for the bike was right at its blue book value for a bike in excellent condition. Normally, a used motorcycle sold by a dealership has a higher sale price than their blue book value, so I sent an email asking for the total cost including all fees and taxes. The email I got back from them made my mouth drop.

The motorcycle was listed online for $1,999.00. It was supposedly discounted from its previous price of $2499.00.  I know this particular model isn't popular and the dealership is probably having trouble selling it, which explains why it was discounted. I was hoping they would be more reasonable with fees, but they weren't. Here is a break down of the motorcycle's total cost from the dealership:

- $1,999.00 listed advertised sale price

- $560.00 UVC Assembly/PDI - PDI stands for pre delivery inspection and UVC stands for used vehicle certification  If your buying a new vehicle your charged a fee to assemble the motorcycle and do a PDI. A used vehicle doesn't need assembly, so your charged a fee for a UVC. I think the acronym UVC is only used in Arizona. A UVC and PDI are just another way of saying "vehicle inspection." Basically a PDI and UVC is walking around the vehicle and making sure everything works; all fluids are at their proper level; everything is adjusted properly, and maybe ending with a test ride. Assembling a motorcycle can involve as little as installing the handle bars, and a vehicle inspection can be done in a very short amount of time. The guys doing this type of work are most likely newbies and are not paid very well; i would say between $9 and $13 per hour.  A vehicle inspection charge may also have been applied when the previous owner traded in the used vehicle for a new one, and hidden within the trade in value. It wouldn't surprise me if a dealership makes money on both ends.

- $550.32 Document, License, Registration: - It doesn't cost a dealership $550.32 to license and register a vehicle, so most of this fee is a charge to have a secretary do all the paperwork. Again, a secretary is another dealership employee making less than $20 per hour, and the document work for a new or used motorcycle is done in a very short amount of time.

 - $225.19 Tax - This is a legitimate fee every dealership must charge.

The total cost for this motorcycle is $3,334.52. That's a 67% markup over the listed sale price of $1999.00. A dealership has employees to pay, so I understand the additional fees. What I don't understand is why the fees are so high. The dealership markup on a document, assembly and vehicle inspection fee is ridiculous! Its no wonder why motorcycle dealership's are often referred to as stealership's; it feels like they're stealing your money. The smart thing to do is save your money and pay cash for a used vehicle from a private seller; compare prices for accessories and parts for your motorcycle whenever you can, and don't buy from dealerships when their prices are unreasonable.

Motorcycle General Topics (Not Specific) / 2018 Full Dress Touring Motorcycles
« Last post by smallengineshop on November 13, 2017, 08:15:29 PM »
I went to Honda's website to check out Honda's new double wishbone front suspension used on their 2018 Gold Wing line of motorcycles. I thought the bike looked really sharp and thought I would post a list of photo's of all the 2018 full dress touring motorcycles. If a manufacturer had more than one full dress touring motorcycle, I chose the most expensive one to display in this post. I have an appreciation for the engineering and technologies that go into these bikes, but I am not a fan of full dress touring motorcycles, and I think everything about them is bloated; more engine size than you need, more weight than you need, more gadgets than you need, etc.

ADVICE: Buy a used one and avoid the high MSRP and the dealership fees they add on to your bill. Motorcycles are not used like cars. Motorcycles spend a lot time parked in the garage and owners will sell them while they still have low mileage. This might not be as common with motorcycles like the Gold Wing, but there are still plenty of them with low mileage and prices well below MSRP. However, this is the first year for the new Yamaha Venture and redesigned Honda Gold Wing, so only 2018 models are available. Also Harley Davidson's new Milwaukee 8 engine has only been available on the touring models since 2017. I would never buy a full dress touring motorcycle, but if I was forced to choose one it would probably be between the Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager and the Harley Davidson Electra Glide. I would choose the cheapest one I could find on the used market. The Vulcan Voyager is cheap to begin with, and with so many people in love with the idea of being a biker. they tend to buy a new Harley Davidson motorcycle that ends up on the used market with low mileage, so there are plenty to choose from. Also the Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager 1700 and the Harley Davidson Electra Glide have been around for quite a while, so there are plenty of upgrades available for them.

Has anyone else noticed how Honda will sometimes spell Gold Wing as two words and other times as one word, GoldWing?

2018 Honda Gold Wing Tour. The price ranges from $26,700 to $31,500

2018 BMW K 1600 GTL. Price is $25.595. I'm not sure the price is correct because the BMW website only show a 2016 model.

2018 Indian Roadmaster Elite. Price is $36,999

2018 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager. Price is $17,499. This is one motorcycle that I don't think has had any big change's over the years since 2009, so an older one will have the same features as a new one. ABS was an option for 2009 to 2013 and became standard equipment in 2014.

2018 Yamaha Star Venture. Price is $24,999 to $26,999

2018 Harley Davidson Ultra Limited. Price is $26,999 to $28,049

Motor Scooters & Mopeds / Advantages A Moped Has Over An Electric Bicycle
« Last post by smallengineshop on November 11, 2017, 06:39:06 PM »
A gas crisis in the United States during the 1970's caused people to look for cheaper transportation. This created a market in which mopeds became very popular. Even Harley Davidson's parent company at the time, AMF, got in on the moped craze with their Roadmaster series of mopeds. Sometime in the early 1980's the moped craze began to take a down turn and by the end of the decade it was over. Fast forward to today, and I only know of one moped manufacturer, Tomos, still selling new mopeds in the United States. While mopeds in the US have almost disappeared, electric bicycles seem to be growing in popularity.

Electric motors for bicycles first appeared on the scene as conversion kits. They featured either a front or rear wheel electric hub motor, and were powered by a heavy lead acid battery. The battery was usually attached to a rear bicycle rack sitting over the rear wheel. This made the bicycle so top heavy you had to be careful parking the bicycle with a kick stand or it would fall over. Now days most electric bicycles are purpose built by bicycle manufacturers and feature a mid drive motor instead of the older wheel hub motor. They are powered by a lower weight lithium battery and many of these batteries are integrated into the bicycle frame, or attached to the frames water bottle holder braze-on's on the down tube. Electric bicycles have improved over the years along with their popularity. There are many reasons why the market for electric bicycles has grown, but whats not so clear is why you don't see more mopeds on the road.

A moped is a two wheel vehicle with a gas powered engine and pedals for pedaling. Mopeds usually have a step through type frame with 16 inch rims making it easy for a rider to get on and off the moped and giving the moped a low center of gravity. They are powered by a 49cc two stroke engine, single speed or automatic 2 speed transmission, and pedals for pedaling and foot support. The pedals on a moped work just like a bicycle by transferring human energy to the mopeds rear wheel to propel the moped forward, and are also used to support the riders feet while riding. Mopeds have a top speed of anywhere from 20 to 35 mph. Most moped's can easily be modified to reach a top speed of 40 mph or more, but this may make it illegal to ride the bike on city streets as a moped. Mopeds are very similar to an electric bicycle in that they have pedals for pedaling and have another power source to propel the bike forward. With a moped the power source is a gasoline internal combustion engine and with an ebike its an electric motor and battery. A moped's overall design and internal combustion engine gives it several big advantages over an electic bicycle, so why are you not seeing more of them on the street? Its probably because most people don't know mopeds exist, or they confuse scooters for mopeds. If the public knew more about mopeds to do a side by side comparison with electric bicycles, and know all their options before purchasing, I think you would see more mopeds on the road. Here a list of advantages a moped has over an electric bicycle:

COST -  A used moped can be purchased for a few hundred dollars, and a new Tomos moped for $1700. Most new ebikes are $3000 or more and can go as high as $10,000. The lower priced electric bicycles have cheaper components, lower capacity battery and sometimes a lower wattage electric motor. Cheaper bicycle components will effect the bikes durability, and a lower capacity battery will effect the range. The lower wattage motor will effect top speed, and may mean having to pedal harder in certain situations. Some people might think the initial cost difference between a moped and electric bicycle can be reduced by not having to buy fuel. Lets assume you do a 100 mile commute every week and the electric bicycle gets 30 miles per charge and the battery life is 500 charges. That means over a 5 year period you will spend $85 to charge the battery (10 cents per charge), and around $700 to replace the battery just short of the 3 year mark. The battery replacement cost depends on the battery, and I have seen them as high as $1000 or more, so I think $700 is reasonable. For a moped that gets 100 mpg and assuming fuel is $2.50 per gallon, over a 5 year period you will spend $650 in fuel cost and $67.50 for the absolutely cheapest 2 stroke oil you can buy (around $200 for better oil if you buy in bulk). The total cost for a $3000 electric bicycle and charging the battery over a 5 year period for a 100 mile weekly commute is $3785. The total cost for a new moped and fuel/oil over the same time period and mileage is $2417.50. So in this example it is actually cheaper to buy gas and oil for a moped over a 5 year period than it is to recharge an electric battery for an electric bicycle. Even if you use the manufacturers claim of 130 mpg for Tomos mopeds and the higher $200 oil cost, the moped still comes out cheaper.

RANGE -  Most mopeds will have a 1 gallon fuel tank and get at least 100 mpg (its probably closer to 120 mpg). That gives the moped a range of 100 miles or more per tank of fuel. You just can't get that much range on a production electric bicycle without spending a ridiculous amount of money or building your own battery. A typical electric bicycle will get 20 to 30 miles per charge. The range you get from an electric bicycle will depend on how much work the motor does, so the more you pedal, the greater the range will be. I have only seen one production electric bicycle that claims a range of 110 miles, and that bicycle is a Stromer ST2 S and costs over $10,000. Can you just imagine how much Stromer will markup the cost of a replacement battery for a ST2 S....Yikes!

DURABILITY - Most electric bicycles on the market today use a mid drive motor. A mid drive motor is attached to the bicycle where the bottom bracket goes, or where the pedal cranks arms are located, and power from the motor is transferred through the chain to the cassette or freewheel, depending on how your bike is setup, and then to the rear wheel. Or in other words power from the motor is transferred through the bicycle drive train to the rear wheel. The problem with this setup is electric bicycles are still dependent on components made for regular bicycles. This makes electric bicycle drive train components more vulnerable to failure caused from higher torque produced by the electric motor. For this reason these components on electric bicycles have a high failure rate, and you will be replacing them frequently. The drive train parts on a moped were designed for mopeds or motorcycles. They are designed to withstand the torque produced by a 49cc two stroke engine that you find on mopeds. Therefore, these parts won't prematurely fail. Mopeds are more reliable than electric bicycles.

SPEED - A moped will go at least 25 mph on a level street until the fuel runs out. The motors on most electric bicycle's will cut out at 20 mph, and 28 mph for a speed pedelec. The problem with a speed pedelec is you must pedal for the motor to engage. I doubt anyone is willing to pedal a speed pedelec bicycle at 28 mph for a long distance, and pushing an electric bicycle at its maximum output will put the most strain on the battery and deliver the worst possible case amount of range. So if you have a long distance to travel I think your going to get there faster on a moped.

PRACTICAL TRANSPORTATION - Mopeds will get you to your destination without you have to break a sweat. A mopeds two stroke engine will power you through almost any riding condition without the rider needing to pedal. Some electric bicycles only feature pedal assist, which means you need to pedal to move the bicycle forward. On a hot summer day an electric bicycle with pedal assist is going to make you sweat. This makes some electric bicycles impractical for certain situations. Also, if your bicycle battery completely discharges, than you will probably be forced to pedal yourself back home. With a moped, the problem of running out of  gas is fixed by going to your local gas station, and there everywhere.

I'm not against electric bicycles, and in fact, I own one which I made using a mid driver motor kit with a 11Ah lithium battery and a low cost department store bicycle. I have owned several electric and gas powered bicycles in the past including a purpose built moped. Both mopeds and electric bicycles are very fun vehicles to own and ride. I would love to see more of them on the road and less cars and trucks.

This is a new Tomos moped powered by a 49cc two stroke engine. It has a one gallon fuel tank capacity, two speed automatic transmission and a top speed of 30 mph. The MSRP is $1700.

This is a 1978 AMF Roadmater 110 moped. The two stroke engine sit on top of the rear wheel and uses friction drive to connect the engine to the rear wheel. This moped is often called a Harley Davidson moped, but they are built by AMF and not Harley Davidson.

These are 1981 AMF mopeds. I believe the engine was manufactured in Italy for AMF. They look more like your typical moped design and not like the 1978 model 110.

This is an Easy Motion electric bicycle powered by a Brose mid drive motor. The lithium battery is integrated into the bicycle frame giving it a clean look. The problem with buying a bicycle with the battery integrated into the frame is your dependant on the bicycle manufacturer when it comes time to buy a replacement battery. That can be expensive

This is a Stromer ST2 S electric bicycle that costs around $10,000. Notice this bicycle uses a rear wheel hub motor and not a mid drive motor. Hub motors do have advantages over mid drive motors, and a big advantage is your not sending motor torque through the bicycles drive train. Notice how the lithium battery is integrated into the frame down tube for a clean look.

Motor Scooters & Mopeds / The Difference Between A Moped And Motor Scooter
« Last post by smallengineshop on November 05, 2017, 07:45:08 PM »
The main difference between a moped and motor scooter is the use of pedals on a moped, and the ability to ride or pedal the moped like a bicycle. The pedals on a moped are used to transfer human energy to propel the moped forward just like a bicycle. Both the moped and motor scooter have a motor, but the scooter has no pedals. The word "moped" is simply a shortened version of joining the two words "motor" and "pedal." Often times you will see a scooter dealership label scooters as mopeds. I believe these dealerships know the difference, but the mislabeling is for internet marketing reasons. Unfortunately it leads the public to believe a moped is a scooter and vise versa. Do a search on YouTube for "mopeds" and you will see quite a few mislabeled scooters. Also some state laws lump scooters and mopeds together under engine size, which leads to more confusion.

Mopeds and many scooters have an engine size under 50cc, but it is common to find scooters with a larger engine. A 150cc engine is a common size for many scooters, and the size can go up as high as 650cc like the engine used on the larger Suzuki Bergman scooter. Most mopeds, if not all, are powered by a 49cc two stroke engine. Most scooters now days are powered by a four stroke engine. This makes four stroke powered motor scooters more fuel efficient and quieter, and easier to comply with EPA or Euro standards. However, two stroke engines tend to produce more horsepower per displacement than a four stroke engine, and have a unique sound all their own. Lubricating a two stroke engine requires mixing motor oil and gasoline together. Most moped's come with a container for motor oil, and mixing the motor oil with gasoline is done by a system called oil injection. However, many used mopeds have the oil tank removed and injection system disabled, so it is up to the rider to mix motor oil and gasoline together before fueling up. This can be a messy and smelly job. Scooters with a four stroke engine have the added benefit of not requiring motor oil to be mixed with the fuel.

Most mopeds have a top speed of 25 to 30 mph, but there are mods out there that can boost top speed closer to 40mph. Most 49cc motor scooters have a top speed of 40 mph, and a 150cc scooter can reach 60 mph. Any scooter larger than 150cc is easily capable of freeway riding. Mopeds and motor scooters using a 49cc two stoke or four stroke engine get close to 100 mpg

Most mopeds and all scooters have a step through type frame, low seat height and a standard riding position, but some mopeds have a frame with a main pipe or backbone making them look similar to a motorcycle. The step through type frame makes it easy for a rider to mount and dismount a scooter or moped, and gives the bike a lower center of gravity, which make's motor scooters and mopeds easier to handle than a motorcycle. While riding, a rider on a moped places their feet on the pedals, and a scooter rider places their feet in front of them on a flat platform, which is part of the scooter body.

Motor scooters usually have a smaller wheel size than mopeds, and its common for scooter wheel's  to have a rim diameter of 10, 12 or 13 inch's, giving the motor scooter a lower seat height and lower center of gravity than a moped. However, there are exceptions. Piaggio manufacturers several scooters with a front wheel having a rim diameter of 16 inches, and Yamaha built the Yamaha Chappy moped from 1973 to 1996, and it had small wheels like a scooter making it look more like a scooter than a moped, but unlike a motor scooter it had pedals for pedaling. A smaller wheel size can make a bike more sensitive to steering, which is usually a good thing when traveling at lower speeds through congested traffic, but it can cause a rougher ride and make the bike less stable at higher speeds.

Scooters have more storage area than mopeds. Almost all scooters have a large storage area underneath the seat, and on larger scooters this area can hold a full face helmet and more. Scooters will also have bag hooks, located in the area where you place your feet, for attaching grocery bags or a purse to. Some scooters have a glove box located near the front for storing small items. One drawback i noticed with the 50cc and 150cc Chinese scooters is when a full face helmet is placed in the under seat storage area, you can't quite get the seat to close. Why the Chinese didn't add a little more room is beyond me. If you plan to use your motor scooter or moped for grocery shopping, than a motor scooter definitely has the advantage.

Both mopeds and scooters have automatic transmissions, eliminating the need to shift or operate a manual clutch like on most motorcycles. Scooters use a CVT or continuously variable transmission with belt drive, and most mopeds will use a centrifugal clutch system with chain final drive. Both systems are proven technologies, but do require periodic maintenance. The chain final drive on a moped requires periodic lubrication, and replacement when they wear out. A scooter final drive belt doesn't require periodic lubrication, but they do require replacement every now and than.

Mopeds have a legal advantage over most scooters. Because mopeds are slower and have pedals, some areas allow riders to use mopeds on the street without needing a drivers license. Legal requirements to operate a moped on city streets are almost always more lax than for a motorcycle or scooter. Some areas allow kids 14 and over to legally ride a moped on city streets. It all depends on your local laws.

Mopeds and motor scooters are very easy to ride and maintain, and they are my first pick for fast transport through a heavily congested urban environment like New York City. Mopeds are not as common now days as scooters, but there are plenty of used one's still around from the moped hay-day of the late 70's and early 80's. Tomos brand mopeds are made in Slovenia, and are still sold in the United States. Scooters are made by almost all the big motorcycle manufacturers except for a few like Harley Davidson and some smaller manufacturers. Suzuki makes a popular line of scooters called Bergman, and Yamaha makes the Zuma and XMAX, and Honda makes the Ruckus, Silver Wing and Metropolitan scooters. There are several discontinued, but popular scooters models on the used market built by the same motorcycles manufacturers. One example is a discontinued, but very popular scooter by Honda called the Honda Helix. I don't think Kawasaki Motors makes a motor scooter that's sold in the United States. There has been a flood of low cost scooters from China over the last decade. Most Chinese scooters have a four stroke 50cc and 150cc engine size and range in price from $500 to $1000. Even though Chinese scooters are sold under several different brand names, they almost all use the same engine design called GY6. The similar design has made it easy to find parts, mods and upgrades for Chinese scooters, so if your scooter does break down, there are always replacement parts available.

This is a 1985 Puch Maxi Sport moped with a step through frame powered by a two stroke engine. Notice the pedals for pedaling.

This is a 1981 Puch Magnum moped with a frame main pipe making it look more like a motorcycle, but notice the pedals for pedaling.

This is a popular Chinese Tao Tao scooter powered by a 150cc four stroke engine.

This is a Honda Metropolitan scooter powered by a 49cc liquid cooled four stroke engine.

This is a new Tomos moped powered by a 49cc two stroke engine.

Notice the pedals on this Yamaha Chappy moped and how the small wheels make it look more like a scooter. The pedals can be locked into position making them more like motorcycle foot pegs than pedals. Yamaha manufactured a 50cc and 72cc Chappy, and the 72cc version did not come with pedals. These bikes were also called LB50 and LB80.

This is a discontinued 2007 Honda Helix scooter. The Helix is also called a CN250 and was manufactured for USA from 1986 to 2007. The Helix is powered by a four stroke, air cooled 250cc engine making it capable of freeway riding.

This is a Piaggio Liberty 150 scooter. Notice the larger wheel rim size making it look less like a scooter. Larger wheels contribute to a smoother ride over rough roads and gives the bike more stability at higher speeds.

This is the popular Suzuki Burgman 650 scooter. The Burgman scooters are available in 200, 400 and 650cc size versions in the United States, and a 125 version is available in other countries. You can get the 650 Burgman scooter with heated grips, heated seat, different engine/power modes and ABS. I don't think Suzuki offers a heated seat for smaller version Burgman scooters, but you can get heated grips as an add-on accessory. The Suzuki Burgman scooter is pretty much the Honda Goldwing of scooters.

This is a 2018 Honda Silverwing scooter. It's powered by a 582cc parallel twin four stroke engine. Notice the full face helmet sitting in the 55 liter under seat storage area on the bottom. I'm familiar with the limitations of using a motorcycle for grocery shopping, and the options available for adding more storage. It blows me away when I see how much storage there is on larger motor scooters, and even some of the smaller scooters. You can add storage area to a moped, but nothing comes close to the amount of storage area available on a big scooter.
There's this guy on YouTube that makes BMX videos and occasionally he will bunny hop over a parked motorcycle. This last time he hopped over a classic Honda Black Bomber parked on the side of the road. How rare is that to find a 1960's Honda Black Bomber parked on a New York City street? This particular bike was manufactured in 1965, 1966 or 1967; not sure of the exact year. The motorcycle is also known as a Honda CB450 and was manufactured from 1965 to 1974.  I've taken my camera to New York City several times hoping to find an interesting motorcycle to photograph, but never found anything. Not even a two wheeled NYPD vehicle like the Piaggio scooter or Harley Davidson police motorcycle. I literally combed the area by walking up and down Manhattan from the spot where the twin towers were at all the way up to Central Park. I did happen to see an NYPD Harley police motorcycle on TV at the location where that idiot Islamic terrorist mowed down cyclists with a Home Depot truck the other day, so maybe they only come out when there's a big emergency. Anyway check out these photo's I ripped from his video and I will link to his video below.

<a href="" target="_blank" class="new_win"></a>

If your trying to learn electrical systems for OPE (outdoor power equipment), motorcycle or car and truck service and repair, and your having trouble understanding a topic, sometimes it helps to read or hear the topic from another source. I've included links to lessons 1, 2, 3, and 6 found in a 1940's radio repair course by Sprayberry Academy of Radio. These lessons go over the fundamental concepts of electrical theory, which a service technician needs to know to understand how electrical systems on motorcycles, cars, trucks and OPE function and operate. I'm not saying these courses are a substitute for an electrical course in your field of study, but they might help you better understand a difficult topic. Whether your repairing old radios, televisions or fixing motorcycles, the fundamental concepts of electrical theory will be the same. This course was written before the transistor was invented, so it doesn't cover semi conductors or computers. I will include links to all 35 lessons (complete course) in the members only section of this forum. These course files are in pdf format, so you need a pdf reader to view them.

Click image to enlarge

  • Lesson 1 - Introduction to Radio
  • Lesson 2 - Basic Electricity
  • Lesson 3 - Lines of Force
  • Lesson 4 - Fundamentals of Transmission and Reception
  • Lesson 5 - How to Read Radio Diagrams and Symbols
  • Lesson 6 - Resistance: A Property of All Electric Circuits
  • Lesson 7 - Coils in Radio Circuits
  • Lesson 8 - Condensers in Radio Circuits
  • Lesson 9 - Coils and Condensers in Combination - Resonance
  • Lesson 10 - Radio Meters, Test Instruments
  • Lesson 11 - Fundamentals of Radio Tubes - Rectifier Circuits
  • Lesson 12 - Rectifier Tubes - Tube Standards and Ratings
  • Lesson 13 - How A Radio Tube Makes A Weak Signal Stronger
  • Lesson 14 - Vacuum Tube Amplification At High Frequencies
  • Lesson 15 - Amplification at Low Frequencies
  • Lesson 16 - Types of A.F. Amplifiers - Amplifier Classes
  • Lesson 17 - How an RF Signal is Detected
  • Lesson 18 - Speakers for Radio
  • Lesson 19 - Power Transformers for Radio
  • Lesson 20 - Choke Coils, Filter Systems and Voltage Dividers
  • Lesson 21 - A Six Color Story of the Tuned Radio Frequency Receiver
  • Lesson 22 - The Superheterodyne Receiver
  • Lesson 23 - Superheterodyne Oscillator Tracking and Super Control Tubes
  • Lesson 24 - Selectivity Factors of Tuned Circuits
  • Lesson 25 - Automatic Volume or Sensitivity Controls
  • Lesson 26 - Six Color Story of the Superheterodyne
  • Lesson 27 - Improvements Which Simplify Receiver Operation and Decibels
  • Lesson 28 - Multiple Band Receivers
  • Lesson 29 - Microphones and Phonograph Pick-Up Units
  • Lesson 30 - Transmission Lines, Pads and Attenuators
  • Lesson 31 - Public Address or AF Sound Systems
  • Lesson 32 - How Sound is Employed in the Movies
  • Lesson 33 - How the Qualities of Sound Reproduction are Controlled
  • Lesson 34 - Photo-Electronics
  • Lesson 35 - Practical Applications of Photo-Electronics
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